I planned 4 days to climb Baker via North Ridge, a snow/ice mix climb. Planning this trip for a while, and the longer
I waited, the less interested I was. It was because the weather in the recent weeks had been rainy and inconsistent. That
made the ice part very unpredictable.
We set our camps at 5200 ft for the first and second nights. Did a bit exploring on the first day on Coleman Glacier. It was
just too warm that day that there were slides on every slope. The second day, weather turned cloudy and cooler, and we went to
explore the seracs and practised a few climbs. That was very fun.
We moved to higher ground the 3rd night to 6200 ft. That would pull us in a position where we could go the North Ridge route
if weather permits, or via Coleman-Deming route. Woke up at midnight, it wasn't cold enough to convince us to take the
North Ridge route. We instead went straight up Coleman.
At about 8200 ft, we saw dark clouds rolling it but we continue to go up. At one point, we were stuck in finding ways to cross
the crevasse. At the same time, we saw lightning from far away. Being frustrated and not able to see much, it seemed impossible
to find ways through the crevasse. We saw flashes again, and from then we decided to get down instead.
After another hour going down to camp, the storm finally rolled in with heavy fog and light snow. We were glad that we made the
right decision not to push higher. Disappointed but happy to attempt the climb.
The massive opening of the glacier
Mt Baker .....
Nice day, but too warm to climb high.
We're definitely lost!
A few skiiers coming down ...
You can see slides all over their ski tracks.
Sun setting nicely ....
Exploring the seracs ...
I have to climb down here ... just to practice climbing back up.
The size of the crevasses are amazing !
I am such a good belayer busy taking pictures, while Aaron was checking things out.
Found the spot, a firm snow bridge below can give us a platform.
I am down there, about 40 feet from the top.
I feel like a real spiderman.
Lowering me again to the bottom ....
The crevasse is about 4 ft wide.
I am ready to come back up
Aaron said, 'Buy me a few beers.'
Checking our anchors to make sure it was not melting.
Blue glacier ice below, so beautiful!
We have to cross over there ...
Setting some protection.
One day I will go into that big hole to explore ... just not today.
Baker in the sun !
Our high camp at 6200ft.
A very depressing moment, thinking we will not have the weather to go up.
A very encouraging moment, thinking we got it !
8:18pm, at 6200 ft, waiting to get up at midnight.
This was around 10pm.
Coming down after seeing many many lightning flashes.
The shoelaces held up pretty well.
On the way out, almost whiteout condition.
What are the chances that both shoelace sheath torn at the same time the night before you attempt to summit ?