Eldorado Peak, WA
Jun 27 - 28, 2009  

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Warming up with some rope travel in Paradise before the big climb.
Photo by Eileen
See Trip Plan Below

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2 teams were clmbing Eldorado Peak during this weekend. Team 1 (Eileen, Ian, Magnus and I) decided to leave on Friday night, searching for free camping along the way near Marblemount, and successfully conquered the Cascade River Boat Ramp as base camp for the night. Team 1 departed at the trailhead and proceeded uphill, crossing 2 boulder fields, before hitting the alpine basin. Team 2 (Han, Tyson, Nancy & Christine) was coming up 2 hours behind us.

We met up on the Inspiration Glacier and set camp. Weather was warm and sunny, but it turned very windy on the glacier. We struggled for a while to set camp, but after all, dinner followed by some dance party music, we drooled into our sleep. Wind was pounding very hard all night, and at one night raining for a few hours. At 6am, we thought it is going to be a miserable climb day because it was total whiteout and foggy. But miracle did happened, by 7am, the sun was breaking out, and condition started to turn favourable.

We started to approach the ridge, and within an hour and a half, we summited Eldorado Peak.


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First task was to cross the river via fallen trees
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I think we were still in Good Spirit at this time.
Photo by Eileen

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May be not as of this moment!
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End of first boulder field.

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I was struggling on the boulders.
Photo by Eileen

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Photo by Eileen
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Prime real estate.

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Magnus' typical move - nap nap.
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Photo by Eileen

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We got a helmet down.
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Look familiar ? Magnus in nap nap again

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Roping up to go up Inspiration Glacier
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Yes, mean I dont have to carry the rope.

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4 of us (team 1) on Inspiration Glacier.
Photo by Hans
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Last stretch before we popped out to the flat.

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Eldorado Peak (the peak in the far side)
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Team 2 was arriving camp.

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Discovered a new dinosaur species, called the 'Ski-rosaur'

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Base camp ....
Photo by Tyson

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Magnus was the 'It's Raining Man' dancer
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Photo by Eileen

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Eileen's improvised bivy, Ian's bivy, and Ken's 3-season Tent
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Christine & Nancy's vista

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The 'Half-the-tent' housing
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Ian was still tying up, Christine was stilling hydrating, while Hans, Tyson & Nancy were already half 1 mile away.
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All of us leaving camp ... going for the summit.
Photo by Tyson

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Photo by Magnus
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Our base camp, .... it looked like we are on another planet.
Photo by Tyson

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Last face up before we are on the ridgeline.

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The famous knife edge 'Eldorado' ridge

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Team 1 was in good shape

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Ken approaching the Summit
Photo by Eileen
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Eileen approaching the Summit
Photo by Magnus

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Magnus stepping over onto the ridge.
Photo by Eileen

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Team 2 aka 'Team Safety Third'

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Team 2
Photo by Hans
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Photo by Hans

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Ken's Summit
Photo by Magnus
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Eileen's Summit
Photo by Magnus

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Magnus's Summit
Photo by Magnus
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Ian's Summit
Photo by Magnus

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Team 1
Photo by Hans

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We descended before the other teams cmoing up to the ridge.
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'Back off, get your own sandwich'
Photo by Tyson
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Photo by Tyson

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Photo by Magnus
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Last task, crossing the river on the same fallen tree.
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Thanks God, we reached flat ground.
Photo by Tyson



Location: Eldorado Peak, North Cascades National Park, WA

Resource(s):
North Cascades National Park Map
          Eldorado Peak Info




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